Somedays are great, some are not.

Day 30 Vilacha to Palas de Rei  28 km

Yesterday we felt like we were dragging. Every step felt like an effort, and we had to push ourselves to get to our destination. We couldn´t understand why. The weather was rain off and on, and it was a constant up and down, but so was today, and today was an easy 28 km. We had a spring in our step today. We arrived a little earlier than yesterday, and we felt fine. No need for a rest.  We can´t figure what made the difference, but today worked.

Maybe it is the excitement. We will be in Santiago on Sunday, so 3 more days of walking. Word was passed along the Camino today: meet  at 4 pm on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday at 4 pm at Taberna Bispo in Santiago. If everyone gets the message, then we should be able to meet up with all the people we have lost along the way. We heard the announcement from 2 pilgrims, then Lawrence popped out from a bar to hug us - He is from Ottawa, and we lost track of him a few days ago. He is the originator of the plan to meet!! You can get out of sync with pilgrims - we might stay at different places, we might just be 10 minutes behind them, they might go an extra 5 kms, and you won´t see them again. This way we might reconnect!

We are in Palais de Rei, and it seems to be a real centre. Everyone seems to stop here.
I remet favourite people along the way: the girls from Humberside in Toronto who know some of the teachers I know from that school, the Danish couple that we had dinner with in Fonfria, John, who has stayed in the same place for 4 nights with us, but ended up at the same hotel today, Mike, who we lost a few days ago - the list goes on and on. There are lots of kids from South Korea here, but one woman is older, and she threw her arms around me when we remet today. The people make the Camino a special experience. At coffee today, a couple of women bikers stopped, looked at my Canadian flag, and said ¨Is Wendy here by chance?¨and it was someone from Oakville who knew Wendy´s sister - they hugged like old friends.

So, we are doing just wonderfully. No injuries, and we are motoring along on schedule.

Last night with Gordon and Anne-Marie was so special - we felt like we were in their home, a private place, unlike the public places we have stayed in so far. And they ate with us, which has never happened before. Truly a unique experience.  I couldn´t load pictures yesterday, so here is Casa Banderas.

Casa Banderas

Day 29 San Mamede to Vilacha 23 km
Today I am staying at another favourite albergue, Casa Banderas. www.casabanderas.com
Gordon Bell, a South African, owns and operates it with his partner Ana Marie. Gordon walked the Camino the first time in 2003, then in 2004, then twice in 2005, as he decided he wanted to operate an albergue, so he walked the second time between Sarria and Santiago, and found this place in Vilacha. It was a tumble down ruin, and had been empty for 30 years, but what sold it to Gordon was the staircase to the second floor. When I met him in 2007, he was mired in red tape and rubble. He had to live elsewhere for the first month of repair, then he was able to sleep in the kitchen.He had help from his sons and family, and lots of Camino friends, and finally he was able to open it for the 2012 season. He is open from April to October, and on duty 24/7, with help from Anne-Marie. It is lovely to sit in the salon, around the fire, and chat or read or catch up on emails.
They ate with us, and the meal was great: pea soup, as it was a cold rainy day, curried chicken on rice, and ice cream for dessert, with lots of hot bread and wine.
Breakfast was the best yet: soft boiled egg ( a first) yogurt, rice cakes for me with butter ( another first) and peach jam, plus coffee. A great set up for a great day.
Gordon says the Camino is busier than ever. He estimates that 1000 people walk by his door every day.
His bathroom is unique - a shower with jets. Another unique experience here.