Casa Banderas

Day 29 San Mamede to Vilacha 23 km
Today I am staying at another favourite albergue, Casa Banderas. www.casabanderas.com
Gordon Bell, a South African, owns and operates it with his partner Ana Marie. Gordon walked the Camino the first time in 2003, then in 2004, then twice in 2005, as he decided he wanted to operate an albergue, so he walked the second time between Sarria and Santiago, and found this place in Vilacha. It was a tumble down ruin, and had been empty for 30 years, but what sold it to Gordon was the staircase to the second floor. When I met him in 2007, he was mired in red tape and rubble. He had to live elsewhere for the first month of repair, then he was able to sleep in the kitchen.He had help from his sons and family, and lots of Camino friends, and finally he was able to open it for the 2012 season. He is open from April to October, and on duty 24/7, with help from Anne-Marie. It is lovely to sit in the salon, around the fire, and chat or read or catch up on emails.
They ate with us, and the meal was great: pea soup, as it was a cold rainy day, curried chicken on rice, and ice cream for dessert, with lots of hot bread and wine.
Breakfast was the best yet: soft boiled egg ( a first) yogurt, rice cakes for me with butter ( another first) and peach jam, plus coffee. A great set up for a great day.
Gordon says the Camino is busier than ever. He estimates that 1000 people walk by his door every day.
His bathroom is unique - a shower with jets. Another unique experience here.

Sleeping Arrangements on the Camino

Day 19 - Bercianos to Mansilla de las Mullas - 26 km

 This is one of the best albergues in terms of design: cubicles with 2 bunks, storage at the end of the beds, and walls between. Plus, see the ladders - they are easy to climb. This is in Roncesvalles.
Today we are in upper bunks, as we got the last beds. They are metal, which deters bedbugs, but the rungs of the ladder are hard on bare feet.
In several albergues, there are plywood panels between beds.

How about this one? We haven´t encountered 3 tier, but it likely is a matter of time.
Some of the lower bunks have no headroom to sit up, and sometimes there is no ladder and you need a chair to get up.
We slept in a room with only 2 bunks, so 4 people in Larrasoana. In Najera, there were 90 people in one room.
Last night in Bercianos, we slept on gym mats on the floor. They actually were very comfortable, but no space between mats.
There is always snoring, so if that bothers you, wear earplugs. I don´t, and I sleep through most of it, though if I wake at 5:30 am, I don´t usually get back to sleep.
Sometimes there are blankets, sometimes sheets, and usually pillows. I alway sleep in my sleeping bag, and sometimes I put my silk insert in and use it. And I cover my pillow with a silk scarf. During the day, I use it to hang my water bottle around my neck.
Dorms are usually not heated, and windows are usually open, so sometimes I need an extra layer of clothes.
I sleep in leggings and tomorrow´s merino t shirt.
I do not get up in the night. Remembering where you are and where the toilets are is too much of a challenge.
There have rarely been lineups for the limited number of showers and toilets, which indicates good planning.
You are not allowed to sleep 2 in a bunk. A couple we have met has tested this out. They opt for a more expensive experience occasionally.

These experiences are all in municipal or donativo or paroquial or low end private albergues. There are many more alternatives out there and perhaps I´ll get Pat to do a guest blog on her experiences in Casa Rurals and Hostals.

But as long as I have a soft surface to sleep on and a shower, I am happy.

Albergues on the Camino

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado 22km

The bare facts; We left late, as Wendy was missing a bag - we never found it. But the day was about 18´and overcast, so we made great time. However, I never got my second cafe con leche. Most bars were closed.
We stopped to visit at the albergue in Granon after 5 km. I intend to volunteer again, and am checking out the place where that might be an option. So at 9;30, Christina, from Italy, was swabbing the floor alone, as her partner was already 2 days late in arriving. Last night she coordinated dinner for 50 pilgrims by herself! It was as charming as I remembered, and will go on my list.This is what dinner looks like with a smaller crowd.


There are categories of albergues. There is the municipal.

Municipal
They are usually run by employees, paid for a few hours a day. The one in Larrasoana was our least favourite. Estella was better, but both were very close quarters, with beds close together.
Los Arcos seemed to be a municipal, but it was run by the Amigos and staffed with Belgian volunteers. Najera was also staffed with volunteers. They were Spanish this time, though Mike has worked there, so they get a variety of nationalities.

Private
We have stayed in several of these. Though they need to make a profit, they usually charge only 10€ or so. Today we are in a private in Belorado, paying only 6 for the bed. We both have uppers. He apologized, as they like the young people to sleep on top.
The private albergues in St Jean and Orrison were much more expensive - not as much competition for them or choice for us. Still the bunks and crowded rooms.
We stayed in 2 called Apostle Santiago. The one in Puenta La Reina was exceptional, except for the steep climb.

Charities
Roncesvailles was run by the church and staffed with volunteers from Holland. This was a favourite, as there were 2 bunks per cubicles. The bathrooms were beautiful and clean.
Pamploma was a charity, sort of, staffed by people with disablilities. It was almost as great as Roncesvalles, though there was less privacy.
Last night in Santa Domingo we stayed in one run by volunteers - spanish again. It too was bright and clean.

About half the time the showers and toilets are shared with men and women. The shower cubicles can be very tight, as are the toilets.

But a pilgrim is grateful for a clean bed and a shower, and laundry facilities.

There are also more expensive options, but we are chosing the less espensive places, and we are usually happy.



We went to mass last night at this church in Santo Domingo.

Blessings!

Darlene