In Spain, and on the Camino

In Paris
By the time we napped there wasnt much time left, so we got a picnic and wandered Square George Brassens. It had pony rides, a carousel, a rock climbing area, a herb garden, a wading pool and beach, a waterfall, and a flea market for books on Sunday, and all in about an acre.
Travelling to St Jean pied de Port on tuesday the 22nd
We had a great trip on the train through the french contryside.. Though we could only get an unreserved seat, we got fine ones. We wandered Bayonne for 2 hours, then a bus to St Jean and our albergue. We got info from the Pilgrims office, then dinnner. He kindly made me an omelet, as the meat was veal. No eating animals for me! Of course, when lights were out, the chorus began: snorers!
Up to Orrison´on Wed the 23rd
We had a lovely day for a very steep climb to Orrison. Slow and steady, with lots of breaks for water. The farms were beautiful, perched on steep slopes, and we saw lots of sheep and a few ponies. We arrived at 11 am, after a 3 hour climb, with no injuries.I did a lot of puffing on the way up. After a shower, laundry, and a brief nap we had lots of time to get to know the other 34 pilgrims staying there, while watching those hardy souls pushing past, all the way to Roncesvalles. I finished a book, wrote in my journal, and just vegetated. Dinner was at 6:30. and everyone introduced themselves. Dinner was vegetable soup, roast pork, white beans in a tomato sauce and basque cake (I got fruit salad). Lights were out in our room by 9 pm.
Up and over to Roncesvalles on thursday
We left 7:50, and it was a gruelling day. We encountered every kind of weather. First the sun shone, then clouds formed, drifting across the paths. We saw banks of snow, still unmelted. Then it became black, and it sprinkled. Then more sun, but as we descended to Roncesvalles, the clouds opened, and both Wendy and I fell,on the muddy path as we took the steep route down, but no injuries and the laundry is done and drying.
We saw many sheep, horse and cattle, wandering, as most of the pasture is unfenced.
The terrain is as varied as the weather; paved paths, stones, gravel, mud, rocks with a river running through, and mulch as we walked through the forests. The path was as steep as yesterday in places, and the descent was about 45¨´ the whole time. We climbed to 1440 m, so were above the clouds most of the time. The valleys were filled with mist
Monks have welcomed pilgrims here at the monastery since the early 12th century. Since I was here in 2007, they have updated the albergue, and there are cubicles with 2 bunks in each, and they expect 300 pilgrims today. They will do your laundry for 3 euros. I will go to dinner at 7 and mass at 8. I missed both last time, as I arrived at 8 pm then.
So we had a challenging and rewarding day today, and after a great sleep tonight, we will be ready for another great day tomorrow.

Buen Camino! ( the monastery in Roncesvalles)

More FAQ

Monday Oct 8  Palais de Rei to Rivadiso - about 26 km, and about 44 to go

Today the weather couldn´t make up its mind. Rain for about 30 minutes, steadily, then threatening for quite a bit of the day. Strong sunshine at times, and very humid. It was another long day for me, but this time I was on the road before 8, and consequently, arrived here at the municipal albergue, about 4:30, and they still had lots of beds. I stayed here last time too, and have good memories of the outdoor showers, and the lovely brook running by. However, I didn´t remember all the hills. I think they must have changed the path.

Here are some more FAQ (not)

How steep are the hills? Imagine going up and down the steep parts of Hampton and Logan all day long, and you still won´t be thinking steep enough.

Most unusual pilgrim? I young man from Venezuala is doing it in a wheelchair seat which is balanced on one wheel. There are bars front and back, and there seem to be 3 men taking shifts pulling/pushing/driving the support van/walking with the mother. They are videotaping part of it, and it is a fundraiser for cerebral palsy, I think, and I think that is what the young man has. Today, up the steepest part, they had 6 people pushing and pulling. When several young girls went by, I asked if they could pull me up, but they said they were having enough trouble themselves.

Best u-turn? I was lost in a lost village on the short way from Tricastela to Sarria. A woman was hanging out on her balcony, and I think she made a practice of redirecting pilgrims. When she told me in Spanish, of course, that I had to turn around, I almost cried. I did ask in Spanish if she had any water, as I was out, and she came out with a 2 liter bottle of cold water, and filled my water bottle. And the backtracking was only the equivalent of a block.

Best octopus? Pulperia Ezekiel in Melide. I had lunch there today, with a glass of lovely white wine. Lunch was fresh cooked octopus, served on a wooden platter, sprinkled with salt, hot paprika, and olive oil. I joined an Italian couple, who are here are the albergue, and it was delightful. Thanks for the picture Tim

A river runs through it

Tuesday, Oct 9, Ribadiso to Arza/Pedroza - 24 km

It rained all day today, except for a few brief times. Light, but relentless rain. There was a stream, and sometimes a brook, running down the middle of the camino. Fortunately, there was a bar right beside the albergue, so I was able to have my cafe con leche, and hot milk with meusli in it, before I set off. Today was a day to snack on chocolate, though I also had cheese, a mandarin orange and a lovely local pear. The trail today was mostly downhill, with very few ascents, except at the beginning, so it made for a less exhausting day. I arrived fairly early in the town with 2 names - one is Castillian, and one is Gallician, I think. I am in a very nice albergue, and my laundry is done.

Most people seemed very lazy in the albergue this morning. When I left at 7:30, lots were still in bed, and everyone has to be out by 8. I think the rain was discoraging them, and many people have said they were slowing down, as they were reluctant to leave the trail and have it all end. Many seem to be in transition in their lives, and probably were hoping for a big revelation. Perhaps it arrived, or perhaps in the cathedral, or perhaps in returning to their old life. I expect changes in my life, and I hope to be less busy, but that may take a lot of work to get to that place.

On the way into town there was a tourist info, probably sponsored by an association of albergues, and they offered to book something in Santiago, so I took advantage of their service, and tomorrow I will be staying at O Fogar de Teodoriro, near the Cathedral, and for 3 nights!! This is the first time I have booked ahead, but I know my destination tomorrow, for certain. I am 21 km from the cathedral right now, so I expect to arrive early afternoon. I am very excited, and am making a list of things to do while I am there. Any suggestions? I don´t think I will be in time for the service at 12, but I think I will go every day, to see if I can find any pilgrims I met along the way

I´m off to dinner. No pulpo tonight. Tomorrow I post from Santiago!

Darlene

Oh what a beautiful morning!

I did ship my bag, and it was here when I arrived. Yeah! It made a terrific difference in my ability to enjoy the climb. We started off before the sun came up, but it was light. I walked with Brunie for a while, then with Jude and Roz for the rest of the day. The views were so incredible! It could not have been a more glorious day. Often O Cebreiro is foggy, and it is difficult to see the views, but today the sun shone all day, and it was about 17´though that varied according to whether we were in the sun or the shade. It might have been difficult for anyone with a fear of heights, because often the hill dropped away immediately, and the view went on forever. We walked up for about 3.5 hours from Ruitelan ( where we were awakened by Ave Maria and Nessen Dorma (sp?).Then we were at the top, or so one would think. But from O Cebreiro to Fonfria, where I am sleeping in a large dorm, there was very little flat walking, and we continued to go up and down. Sometimes the up was very steep! I was grateful, when walking near the edge, that my daypack was so light, as sometimes the large backpack can make me feel unbalanced. So it was a successful experiment, and I hope to carry it the rest of the way, without shipping it again.

The prices in Spain are so low! For instance, last night the bed was 5euros, with clean sheets and pillowcases. And for 7 euros, the dinner was the same as 5 years ago: carrot soup, best ensalada mixta I have seen, and exactly the same as my picture from 2007. Then he made me rice carbonara, while the rest had spaghetti carbonara. Dessert was a custard like pudding, made with eggs and rennet, I think. Plus all the wine you could drink, and bread, all for about 9 canadian dollars.

Today I had a cafe con leche in La Faba - like a latte, but with less milk, and it came with a little chocolate biscuit. Almost the same size as a mug at home and it cost about 1.30 Canadian, and it was delicious!

When I arrive at an albergue, I have felt exhausted, and young people wonder what I think I am doing, trying to walk to Santiago. But then the next day, they are astonished to see that I am at the same location as them! It is very satisfying to see the astonished look on their face. Today I didn´t even need a nap. It gets better every day!

Hasta luega
Darlene

Wed Sept 19, I think

I think I have it down now. I have figured out a routine, and am now enjoying everything, including the cleaning. It is very satisfying to walk out of a pristine bathroom, especially since the pilgrims comment on how clean the whole albergue is.

Julie asked about the weather. It has been warm - even hot while I was walking. I have the windows wide open all day and night, and the albergue is quite comfortable. There has been no rain for a month or 2 and the scenery is quite brown. Most pilgrims leave at about sunrise wearing shorts or capris. Long pants are the exception. One woman was wearing the disposable plastic gloves that you get in supermarkets over here, as she forgot her gloves, and her hands get cold.

Once again there was a lineup when we opened, and we were completo at 25. We don´t know how many go away when they see our completo sign but we don´t want to open the barn, as it makes twice as much to clean.

Yesterday was a first for me, and for Dave, who has been here many times. Two young German men sat down to register, with a beer each in glasses. They said they would be cooking dinner, and invited everyone to eat with them. They had carried about 5 pounds of potatoes with them from Astorga, and assorted other vegetables. They settled on a Spanish menu of tortillas and Andrei made a risotto. The liquid  in the risotto was white wine. Apparently it was very tasty. They worked thorough the early evening and served dinner about 7.30. I found it was just too much noise ( German punk music or something like it on their mp3 with a speaker), and they made about 4 visits to the tienda, each time coming back with more tinned vegetables and more wine. They ended up making about 6 tortillas. Dave stayed to enjoy and monitor, and I went to vespers at 7 and slept through the service. Then I went to Gaspar´s and enjoyed a quiet dinner with a pilgrim. The kitchen was empty and clean when I got back. There was leftover tortilla, which we served for  breakfast, and some was wrapped up to take on the road. One of the fellows had a beer for breakfast. It made cleaning the garbage bags challenging, as they were leaking beer. So it was an alcohol fueled celebration, which almost all of the pilgrims enjoyed. ( Dave fielded a few complains while I was out).

Andrei, who made the risotto, was here 2 nights ago. He then walked to Ponferrada, took the bus back to Astorga, met his friends, and talked them into staying with us. I was quite surprised to see him again. He is returning to Italy to complete a 3 month residency, take his exams, and begin practice as a doctor. He seemed so young to me!

I made a lentil soup for Dave and I for lunch and there is enough for today. Yeah!! Plus I made a double batch of oatmeal fudgies for tea, and  so there are some for tea today too. We have decided that we will be completo at 20, and be prepared to take in 24 if there is an emergency. So off I go to start the cycle all over again.

I wish I could illustrate the blog with pictures. However, if you google
 images Rabanal  you will get several thousand pictures, and a lot of them are of Rfugio Gaucelmo.

Darlene la hospitalera