I will go on with joy, and gratitude

Foncebadon to Molinaseca 20 km

Today was soooo hard. Up at 6, and out the door at 7.30 with my headlamp on.  Up to the Iron cross, where I left stones for Judi, Peggy and myself. The sky was spectacular as the sun rose. I could see, at various times, the lights of Rabanal, Astorga, and even Leon. Then Manjarin, where I once again used the pit toilets. Thank God they were available. Then up more, then on the level to ElAcebo. From there it was downhill all the way, and the terrain was varied. Molineseca is at 500, so we descended 1000
meters over about 4 hours of walking. It really was brutal. Stone and rocks in various formations on the path.I slipped a few times, but my sticks saved me, and I knew then it was time to take a break.

I am here in a lovely albergue in Molenaseca. They are doing a communal dinner, but it is lentils and spaghetti, and I want something different, so I will walk back into town to eat. When I arrived here, I put my legs up the wall, then took a nap for 45 minutes. Now my laundry id out drying, and I had a shower.
 Hopefully tomorrow won´t be as challenging. Almost flat, with a bit of descent.

So here is my list of joy for today.
Hot oats with apricot jam for breakfast
Walking out of Foncebadon, using my headlamp for the first time, with the moon and the stars in the pre-dawn.
The view of the sky - immense - as the sun rose.
The Iron Cross against the sunrise.
A pit toilet, just when I needed it.
Birdsong in the forest - it sounded like  chickadees but unlikely
Dew soaked blackberries
Blackberries for snack all along the path.
A chat over cafe con leche with Bonnie, from the USA
Lunching on chocolate with almonds
 Vistas of green covered mountains
A body that works
Gregorian chant at Manjarin

And here is my gratitude list:
Heather and Lola for the purse and silk sleep sack
Michael, Ryan and Aislinn for the loan of a great sleeping bag
Keen for terrific boots and shoes and socks
Meg and Arlo, Lola and Cy for the walking sticks ( though I left them at home and bought some to dump here)
Louisa for the red merino shirt, which was perfect for today
Leslie for the gloves which I used for the first time today, and the teal shirt - great for cold days - and the toilet kit
Dave for helping me pick out a new backpack
Judi andPeggy for the stones, which made the visit to the Iron Cross so meaningful
You people reading my blog and encouraging me.
Everyone I have met through Caminoing
The Canadian Company of Pilgrims, Toronto branch
Hikers who walked with me in the winter.
My family, who always believed in me.

Love to you all

Darlene, the pilgrim

Later the same day

Life is so different as a pilgrim. I left Rabanal at noon, and arrived at Foncebadon at 1:30. It was challenging. All uphill - I climbed 300 meters over 6 km, so it was quite steep, and hot too. I didn´t think that I could make another 10 km to El Acebo. And I am still getting used to my new backpack, which, of course, is too heavy, mostly with food.

I am staying in the parroquial alberque. It is very basic: bunks close together, small corridor kitchen, even tinier bathrooms, and no heat - no lovely wood burning fireplace. No comfy chairs or garden to sit in. However, it is run by a volunteer hospitalero, Renny, from the USA, so I sat in the sun with him and we compared experiences, and albergues. This one serves breakfast (instant coffee and bread) and a communal dinner. He is making lentils, and will take out the vegetarian portion before adding the chorizo. He is also making pasta salad, so I am going back to cook a few potatoes for myself. He is on crutches, and has been for 14 months, so this is the way he can be on the Camino. He has done this place many times before. I choose to stay here, as Tom, who was one of our trainers, loves to work here, and I wanted to see if I could see myself working here. The answer is no.

Foncebadon is much colder than Rabanal- last week when we were 10´ they were at 0´, as they are that much higher. It also only has 4 year round residents. It is windswept, with many abandoned buildings, and 4 albergues. The one I am staying in is in the church, and there will be a gathering to share tonight, but no organized vespers. Rabanal is really a fairy tale village - so clean, with flowers everywhere, and no abandoned building on the main street. The restaurants are both in hotels, so are lovely, with extensive menus.

Tomorrow, only 2 km uphill to the Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave their stones, then it is downhill all the way to Molinaseca.. I just checked for links and they are all in Spanish, or Galician, which is what I think this computer is programmed in.

Must go as time is almost up.

Darlene, la peregrina

The rain in Spain

Our Canadian guest and her dad did stay over a second night. We drove up to the Iron Cross yesterday after lunch. The Dad walked up and we drove him back. It was strange being a tourist there, and fascinating. There was a tour bus there waiting for bus pilgrims to have a snack and be transported to the next sight on the Camino. I hope when I walk up next Monday, it will seem different.

So, we accepted everyone yesterday until we got to 36, and then we put up the completo sign. Doing tea for 30 was  a challenge, but it worked and fortunately I had a batch of cookies ready. A young man from Venezuala did all the dishes, and neither Dave or I could understand him.Breakfast was a challenge, as we can only seat 14 at a time, but still they all ate breakfast in 45 minutes. It was just as much fun as the smaller group from the day before. Every day brings challenges and joys, just as in my life at home, but here the challenges are solved and over quickly, and we move on. I shall try that at home.

 We had help with the cleaning this morning, (the Canadian Dad - they took a taxi to Cacabelos, hoping to be able to walk tomorrow) so it went well. I just hope the sun comes out so the pilgrims´ laundry dries for them. We do have a balcony and drying racks, but not enough space for the laundry of 30 pilgrims.

Life does seem so simple here.

Til tomorrow
Darlene

Our first stay-over guest

We are now turning no one away, so yesterday, we were prepared for 40, and only 12 showed up! There really seems to be no rhyme or reason for the numbers.  We had 2 Canadians, including a French Canadian from New Brunswick, who is involved in a french speaking Camino group there. This is his 7th Camino, the first without his wife, who is training for a marathon -- They are in their late 60s.  The other Canadian has tendonitis, and is staying over. Dave took her to the pharmacia last night. That is the only medical attention available here. We will drive her up to the Iron Cross today - it is 7 km - and she will meet her father there, who is walking up, then we will bring them back in time to open the albergue. Every day is different, and joyous in many ways.

I have a salad Nicoise ready for lunch today, and oatmeal fudgies for tea, so we can take the time to go to the cross with her. I look forward to  heading out myself - a week from Monday.

We had a young Korean woman spend the afternoon on our patio yesterday. She had arranged to stay in the Monastery, but they are not open until around 4. She had had bedbugs too, about 5 days ago, so she wanted a rest for a few days. I can´t imagine how horrifying it is to have them, and then to live in fear that they are not gone, or that you might encounter more.

Most of the people who stay with us are in their 50s and 60s, and some students. There are very few in their 30s and 40s - I guess they are too busy at home. We had our first Polish guests yesterday, and the day before, someone now living in England who was from the Cayman islands. It certainly is an education.

Til tomorrow
Darlene