Spanish Specialties

Day 31 - Palas de Rei to Ribidiso - 27 km

It rained almost all day today, but never very heavily, so it was an enjoyable time, in spite of the mud and the river running through the trail. This is what it looked like.

We stopped for an early lunch in Melide today. It is famous for pulpo - octopus, so we shared a plate and I had a glass of delicious Ribeiro wine with it. They cook the octopus on the spot in a pot of boiling water, and serve it on a wooden plate, sprinkled with hot smoked paprika, salt and olive oil.

Truly an experience.
There are other memorable dishes and drinks. Here are a few that we have enjoyed.
Fresh squeezed orange juice - a great fuel for the last few kms.
Caldo Gallego - potato, white beans, and greens fresh from the garden in a delicious broth.
Lentil soup - thick and warming, and highly spiced.
Squid in it´s own ink.
Trout, fresh and pan fried, with a squeeze of lemon.
Paella, always different, according to the seafood they add. But we also enjoyed the chicken paella made for us at San Bol.
Chicken roasted with red peppers.
Potato and tomato stew - this was enhanced by the company in Bercianos, and the fact that it was made by the hospitaleras and some Sardinians who were staying there.
Cauliflower soup with a poached egg floating in it.

Here is a post about meals on the Camino. http://www.caminoadventures.com/what-is-food-like-on-the-camino/
And check out the blog listed on the side: my kitchen in Spain,

Enjoy your meals today, wherever you are.

More FAQ

Monday Oct 8  Palais de Rei to Rivadiso - about 26 km, and about 44 to go

Today the weather couldn´t make up its mind. Rain for about 30 minutes, steadily, then threatening for quite a bit of the day. Strong sunshine at times, and very humid. It was another long day for me, but this time I was on the road before 8, and consequently, arrived here at the municipal albergue, about 4:30, and they still had lots of beds. I stayed here last time too, and have good memories of the outdoor showers, and the lovely brook running by. However, I didn´t remember all the hills. I think they must have changed the path.

Here are some more FAQ (not)

How steep are the hills? Imagine going up and down the steep parts of Hampton and Logan all day long, and you still won´t be thinking steep enough.

Most unusual pilgrim? I young man from Venezuala is doing it in a wheelchair seat which is balanced on one wheel. There are bars front and back, and there seem to be 3 men taking shifts pulling/pushing/driving the support van/walking with the mother. They are videotaping part of it, and it is a fundraiser for cerebral palsy, I think, and I think that is what the young man has. Today, up the steepest part, they had 6 people pushing and pulling. When several young girls went by, I asked if they could pull me up, but they said they were having enough trouble themselves.

Best u-turn? I was lost in a lost village on the short way from Tricastela to Sarria. A woman was hanging out on her balcony, and I think she made a practice of redirecting pilgrims. When she told me in Spanish, of course, that I had to turn around, I almost cried. I did ask in Spanish if she had any water, as I was out, and she came out with a 2 liter bottle of cold water, and filled my water bottle. And the backtracking was only the equivalent of a block.

Best octopus? Pulperia Ezekiel in Melide. I had lunch there today, with a glass of lovely white wine. Lunch was fresh cooked octopus, served on a wooden platter, sprinkled with salt, hot paprika, and olive oil. I joined an Italian couple, who are here are the albergue, and it was delightful. Thanks for the picture Tim

A pefect day

Sunday, Oct 7  - Vilacha to Palas de Rei  - 26km and 72 to go

Today was another glorious day, with lots of shade and breezes, and about 27´ . I walked in a short sleeved t shirt and shorts most of the day. As usual, it was a lot of ups and downs. I slept very well last night, so I didn´t get on the road until 9am! I just checked into the municipal albergue in Palas de Rei at 5:30 pm and I got the last of the 60 beds! It is much nicer than I remembered - only 2 bunks in my room, with an ensuite bathroom with shower, and since I was the last one in, no one else was waiting to use the shower. However, there was no hot water left, so the shower was quick.

So I walked most of 9.5 hours. How did that go, you ask? Well, what made it not only bearable, but fun, were the people I walked with. A couple from New Brunswick.  A young woman from Portland Oregon, who was on her second day, and suffering. A retired midwife, who has worked all around the world, including a stint at obstetrics at Central Hospital in Toronto. I think it is now closed. 3 women from Calgary  that I met yesterday, who started in Sarria. I walked with them most of the day and had my 2 breaks with them. First break was lunch, about 12:45, and I had the rest of my cheese, a large apple, 2 rice cakes and a piece of chocolate. The second break was around 4 pm, and I threw caution to the winds and had half a glass of beer, with half a glass of lemonade. I asked my walking friends to monitor me for staggering, but I was fine, and I am sure the alcohol burned off fast in the heat. I also snacked on almonds and dried fruit.

So it was an uneventful day, full of the joys of the Camino, prefaced by a wonderful evening and sleep at Casa Banderas.

Tomorrow I will be in Melide around noon, and it is famous for octopus (pulpo), so that is what I will be having for lunch, instead of eating out of my pack. Then perhaps stay at Ribadiso, another municipal albergue with a perfect pastoral setting. I can´t believe I could be in Santiago in 3 more days!

Have  a wonderful Thanksgiving weekend, if you live in Canada.

Darlene