Paradors, and a free meal

Day 34 Santiago - 5 km, around the city

Up at the late hour of 7:30 after a good nights rest. We hustled off to the Parador for a free breakfast.

Paradors are luxury hotels developed by the Spanish government. I have been inside several, and they do a great job of updating the interiors while retaining the original structure and ambiance. It you saw The Way, you saw the parador in Leon, which they used in the film.

The one in Santiago was a pilgrim hospital dating back to 1499, and provided shelter and care to pilgrims until 1952, when it was converted to a Parador. They continue the tradition of serving pilgims - many who can afford it, stay here while in Santiago. They also provide free meals to pilgrims.

In order to get our free breakfast, we lined up at the garage entrance. The first 10 pilgrims to arrive before the meal are escorted into the Parador, past the paying guests, the luxurious dining rooms, the beautiful cloisters, and into the kitchens. There we picked up carafes of coffee  and hot milk, and a plate of churros ( like crullers) croissants and a cinnamon roll-like bun with apple filling. We carried them to a special dining room, just for pilgrims, and proceeded to enjoy ourselves. We met new pilgrims who were recent arrivals
( you must claim the meal within 3 days of arrival in Santiago). Some had walked different routes than us, and once again were from different countries, all in Europe. Two women that we had encountered several times, who left St Jean on the same day as us, were there. They were from the Czech Republic, and so the conversation also touched on Russia and eastern European politics.

We went back for lunch, which is the big meal. Since it was at noon, and most pilgrims are not ready to eat then, or are at the Pilgrims¨ Mass we once again were among the first to arrive. The meal included about 5 kinds of meat, all variations of pork. Later at the Bispo Taberna, we wondered where all the pigs were kept. We saw and smelled many cattle, but no pigs. Back to the meal: 3 kinds of tortilla, bread, lentil soup, ensalada mixta, empanadas, wine and sliced pineapple, plus 2 kinds of cake. It is 6 hours later, and we still aren´t hungry for dinner.

The food was great, but the opportunity to once again meet with other pilgrims and share stories over a shared meal was really the reason we went.

Thank you Parador Santiago de Compostela.

 http://www.paradores-spain.com/spain/pscompostela.html

Here is another story of the free meal:
 http://indietravelpodcast.com/spain/pilgrim-meal-santiago-de-compostela-spain/

At 4, we went back to Bispo Taberna, to meet more Pilgims that we had met along the way. And Lise, who arrived with the 2 guys who had walked with her. We´ll catch up with her tomorrow.

The Camino experience continues to amaze us.

Free meals in Santiago

Fri, Oct 12 in Santiago

Fiesta day! The Spanish mostly have the day off. Half the restaurants, shops and museums are closed, and families are wandering the streets. There were big crowds in the cathedral, and I am glad that I visited St James when there was no line-up. There are even children on the streets, kicking balls, and running away from their parents. Most of the city where I spend my time is car-free, so it is safe for children to run and play. There were mimes - one of Gandhi, all spray painted white. There were actors dressed like cardinals ( the priests) and St James, the pilgrim, and you could have your picture taken with them. I took an audio tour of the cathedral this morning, and counted. There were multiple depictions of Jesus on the cross, and about 20 small and larger chapels, some with seats of up to 100, some with a few benches, and some with no seating. The famous plaster statue of St James the Moor slayer is there too. So many wars and battles committed in the name of religion.

I also toured the museum of Pilgrimage. It had a 6 lovely videos of the different paths to Santiago, taken with stop action photography, and made into a video. There also were several interactive videos, which were interesting. I took a 30 second movie as I walked around a scale model of the Cathedral. Ask me and I´ll show it to you.

It was a beautiful day - no rain, for the first time in 5 days. I spent a few hours people watching, as I got 3 free meals today from the Hotel dos Reis Catolicas, the Parador. We waited in or by the parking garage, and on showing our Compostela and passport, up to 10 people are admitted. I went to breakfast, with 3 others: a man from Luxembourg, a girl from Quebec, and a Spaniard. The Luxembourg guy had eaten there several times ( you can eat 3 meals a day for 3 days after you arrive). He led the way. We got 2 carafes of expresso, a carafe of hot milk and piles of churros ( deep fried twisted pastries) batons of whole wheat and plain sweet buns. I took my meusli.

Lunch was salmon, make your own ensalada mixta, with lettuce, onion, tuna, sweet corn and tomatoes, fried bacon, bread and eggs, a leek and carrot saute, and a piece of salmon, not to mention caviar on melba toast, and a bottle of wine - for 2 of us!

Dinner was 10 - Spanish, German and French, and me.It wasn´t as good for me: pasta salad, pork, french fries and a melange of zuchinni and red pepper, plus wine of course.

So tomorrow I am off to Switzerland, and the solo part of my journey is over. I wonder what that will be like? Always an adventure.

Darlene