Where was I?

I am back from Spain, with many tales to tell. But why didn't I post from Spain? Well, I was blocked from my blog for the duration of my time outside Canada. I made many attempts to get in, but it is all a blur to me now, as Yahoo also frequently blocked my email, and between the two, it was very frustrating trying to stay in touch.

Meghan, Cy and I walked 180 kms on the Camino Frances.



 

"3 generations of McKee family from Toronto with Hospitalero Gilbert. Grandmother Darlene, daughter Megan and grandchild Cy.
Darlene will be back as a hospitalera at Gaucelmo on September 15th. — in Rabanal Del Camino, Castilla y León, Spain"

I walked 123 kms - the entire Camino Ingles, by myself.

 
 This is a picture that Ingrid took on the Camino Ingles last year.


I spent about a week in Santiago, with a visit to Carantonia, Muxia and Finnesterre, spending most of this time with a new pilgrim friend - Irene, from California.


 
 Irene took this picture of me at
the  0 cairn in Finnesterre.

I spent 16 days caring for pilgrims as a hospitalera at Refugio Gaucelmo in Rabanal.



 

 Ray and I at Refugio Gaucelmo

I was in Madrid for 4 days, staying at the OK Hostel,
http://okhostels.com/ (highly recommend it!)



 



 and for 2 of those days, Julie and Michele and I were roommates as we wandered around Madrid.


 

 Thanks to Julie for the 2 pictures above.

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.
I'll be posting more on my adventures.

Return to the Camino 2016

My next Camino - but not my last, I know, will be in August of 2016.

My grandson Cy and I have chatted about doing the Camino together, but this winter Meghan, his mom and my eldest, came to me with the idea of the 3 of us walking in August of 2016 - and my answer? SI!

No details have been worked out, but I have a rough plan.

 Astorga,with a visit to the Museo del Chocolate
 http://www.travelbelles.com/2011/02/chocolate-castles-astorga-spain

Museo de Chocolate, Astorga
 

 Rabanal, Refugio Gaucelmo, where I volunteered for 2 weeks in 2012, and will again in Sept 2016
https://www.facebook.com/RefugioGaucelmo



 Refugio Gaucelmo, Rabanal

Ponferrada has a Templar Castle - we'll stay here for sure - who wouldn't want to visit a Templar Castle?
















It is still another 200 km or so to Santiago - too soon to make definite plans, but I have more ideas.

After they return home for school at the end of August, I'll walk to Finisterre, bus back to Santiago, and on to Ferrol, in order to walk the Camino Ingles.




Then, back to Rabanal for another 2 weeks taking care of pilgrims.

So, I'll be busy this year, training, planning and dreaming!

From the Sublime to the Ridiculous!

Day 24 - Rabanal to Molineseca - 26 very hard kms

Rabanal 1149 m 
We had a great start to the day - Becky and Inez, the hopitaleras at Rabanal sang Happy Birthday to Wendy as she entered the kitchen for breakfast, where the coffee was self serve - a first! 2 cups of cafe con leche to fuel us for the day, plus my oatmeal.

We climbed 6 km to Foncebadon 1495 m where Lenore, Paul and Lilly will be hospitaleras in June. It was closed, so we couldn´t peek in, as it didn´t open until noon. The first pilgrim hospice was built here in the 12th century, by a hermit named Gaucelmo.

We climbed 2 km to the Cruz de Ferro 1504 m, where I left a stone for myself, and 2 as requested by Judi and Peggy, and something from Robert. The cross was originally erected to guide the pilgrims across the mountain. It was rather emotional for me.

Another 2 km to Manjarin 1451 m, an abandoned village with a simple refuge ( no running water or electricity) run by Tomas, who calls himself the last Templar knight. He isn´t there right now - he is away, recuperating, but other volunteers are running it for him.

Shortly after, we pass the hightest point on the whole Camino 1517 m!

7 km downhill to El Acebo 1145 m. where we had lunch. The descent to Molineseca 744 m was the most difficult descent we have done. The base is rock, mostly slate, strewn with stones and more rocks, with the occasional stream running through it, and very steep. It took us about 4 hours of hard work descending, and we were beat when we arrived at the albergue. But there must be a celebratory dinner, so off we will go.

Last night´s dinner in Rabanal, after a lovely verspers service, was one of the best we have had, and the company - 2 Canadian couples, and one woman from Alaska, was superb too.

The next 2 days will be mostly flat, through a river valley, then another mountain to climb. A pilgrim´s work is never done.

In Rabanal again

Day23 Astorga to Rabanal, 21 km


I awoke excited. As I left Astorga, almost every step, every vista, was familiar. We stopped at Albergue Las Aguedas in Murias de Rechivaldos, and sat in their dining room and had breakfast, family style, as I had in 2012, and the hospitalero was the same one who had tried to help  me with my backpack then.  Then along the familiar path to the Cowboy Bar in El Ganzo, where we had a cafe con leche. Then 6 more kms along a gently sloping upward, stone strewn path to Rabanal. There was Father Pius, working in the garden. He had made great progress, and there were benches and tables for passing pilgrims. I introduced myself. He didn´t remember me, but we saved jam jars for him and he gave me a jar of elderberry preserves when I left in 2012. 
Then into the Refugio, with only one person ahead of me, as it was only noon. The gardeners, who come out from England to plant and do maintanence each spring were there, and just leaving to do the same job in Miraz. The herb garden is wonderful. I went to sign in and was greeted by Julie, who is the contact person for the hospitaleras. She is finishing her 2 week stint tomorrow and returning to England tomorrow. We had spoken on the phone, but never met. They now provide cotton pillowcases, made by Alison Raju, and wash the used ones every day. When I was here we gave out disposables.
I settled in, showered and did a big laundry, as they have a spinner, and the clothes dry in the garden in an hour. It was safe to wash the walking pants and both pairs of socks!
I checked out menus at Antonio´s and Gasparo´s, and Gasparo still has a better menu - maybe it is the chocolate mousse that calls me!
I went over to see Isabel at El Pilar albergue. It was quiet, as I think many pilgrims are going on to Foncebadon, which is 6 more steep kms. I think the town is hurting.
But for me it feels like my home away from home. I look forward to vespers with Gregorian chanting, and then dinner, and a wonderful sleep before tackling the mountain tomorrow.

Refugio Gaucelmo in Rabanal