Just the facts

Day 16  Itera de la Vega to Villalcazar de Sirga   28 km

So just the facts for today: we left without breakfast, as we have found it so much easier to eat up the miles in the morning, and so much harder in the noon day sun, so we had a banana after 4 km, then tortilla and cafe con leche after 8 km, then another cafe con leche after 6 more. I also got money and shopped for rice cakes and chocolate in Fromista. Another 6 km, then lunch in a park. By the time we reached this village, we had done 28 km and were ready to stop.
I amused myself today with statistics. We are in Palencia, a province in Castilla y Leon, and the land is very flat, and the roads are straight. Since we were walking along beside the road, there were mileage signs every km, so I timed myself for 6 km, which we did in 72 minutes.. averaging 12 minutes per km. I figured out that at the pace we are making.. 24 km average per day, we will make Santiago on the 25th, and we fly out of Madrid on the 30, so we are doing fine.
No blisters for either of us, except I have some on my ears = perhaps as a result of sunburn. I bought a large hat  .. very old pilgrim like, but it covers my ears.
Last night we had dinner with 2 couples we have met several times, plus Rostislav and several other new people. What a rowdy table it was.
Today we are at a donativo albergue, which is lovely. Donativo means pay what you think it is worth. The hospitaleros are Italian, so it is lots of work to understand them. They served italian coffee with milk and cookies, plus an italian liquor to add if you wish, at 4:30. To get hot water for the shower, you put 1€ in the meter for 10 minutes. Every albergue has its charms.
This is the link for the village, and a picture of the church.



 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villalc%C3%A1zar_de_Sirga

A Study in Contrasts

Day 14 Burgos to San Bol  24 km
Day 15 San Bol to Itero de la Vega 26 km

Walking into Burgos was grueling. The trail was through an industrial area, and we couldn´t find our way to the promised track along the river. The city is gorgeous, once you find the old area, and the cathedral is spectacular. We had dinner then went to the pilgrim service. We saw nothing but a small side chapel, as there is a charge for wandering the church. It just doesn´t seem right. But though there was so much promise, it was hard adapting to a big city, and frustrating trying to find food, a supermercado, postcards, stamps - we found nothing except dinner. The albergue is huge, with 300 beds, and is brand new - a great design. The number of people in the albergue and the streets were overwhelming.

In contrast, the walk out of Burgos was lovely. Then we hit the highways, and we spent a lot of time wandering around the highways and railroad tracks. Once we hit the country away from traffic, we began to enjoy the scenery once again. We arrived at San Bol about 3 pm, to get the last 2 beds - there are only 12! The albergue is situated about 100 m off the track, in a glade of trees. There is an ancient spring, said to prevent any further foot problems if you bathe your feet in it. I touched my toes in. There were 2 Canadians - us, 2 Quebecois, 3 Italian, one Czech, 2 Germans, and 2 Spaniards. We were miles from anywhere, so it was a chance to really relax, catch up on my journal ( no internet or wifi there), and plan some blog posts. The hospitalera cooked a community dinner - 13 around a round table, and we had chicken paella, cooked from scratch by her in a huge paella pan, green salad, and vanilla pudding, with bread and wine - accomodation was 5 € and dinner was 7€. A thoroughly relaxingevening, ending with a reiki treatment.

Today we climbed up and down the famous hill out of Castrojerez.Because it was so hot, it was a tough afternoon out of Castrojerez, but we are in a fine albergue, though nothing special yet, with the prospect of friends we have remet today. Life is good. This is a Roman bridge we crossed just before we arrived.

Ranting: those snoring broncadors!

Day 13, San Juan de Ortega to Burgos, 27 km

The bare facts: As I will explain, we got an early start - on the road by 6:24, in time to see Mars and Jupiter in the dark sky, then watch the lightening and the sun come up over our shoulders. The cuckoo was calling - was that a comment on the night we had, or a blessing for the day? In the next field were 4 horses, nickering at us. It was a wonderful start to the day. But the 3 hour approach into Burgos is tough. Past the airport fence, and along an ugly highway, past the industrial area, and then a struggle to find the Cathedral and the municipal albergue, which is great - clean, new, bright, and though I have an upper bunk, it is not too high. But the high point of Burgos is the cathedral.



I´ll be heading out shortly to see it.

Meanwhile, those snorers. They are always present in a room, unless there are only 2 of you and you both don´t snore. Last night there were many. One guy had barricaded his bed with extra mattresses. Why? I think to muffle the sound of the freight train emmanating from his mouth. Then there was the call and response from the couple down the line. There were also the barkers, the grunters, the coughers, the chokers, the throat clearers and the slow steady chuggers. Then those that talk in their sleep. I sleep though most of it, but had had enough at 5;45, so we headed out. Lets hope they are sleeping elsewhere tonight. I  can do without the cacaphony!

Buen Camino
Darlene

San Juan de Ortega and other people we meet

Sunday Day 12, Belorado to San Juan de Ortega- 24 km.

This is where our laundry is hanging - great location to catch the breeze. It has been a beautiful day, though there was frost on the wooden bridge this morning. This afternoon we are sunning ourselves in the plaza in front of the monastery. There are no priests living here, and mass for the pilgrims only 3 times a week.
It was an easy 24 kms, due to an early start, and breakfast on the premises.

This is the Albergue Monasterio San Juan de Ortega (St John of the Nettles) It is slowly being restored. Another castle like albergue, and only 5€ per night.

We have met some very interesting people on this Camino.
I will use initials, (in some cases) to protect privacy.

Today our walk was fueled partly by outrage. We walked for about 2 hours with W, an American, who is a libertarian, and a conspiracy theorist. He had some interesting and outrageous ideas which we totally disagreed with, so we had friendly arguements about Obama, health care and unions, and the time passed very quickly.

Some of my photos on facebook are from Rostislav ( real name), a sweetheart of a guy from the Czech Republic. It is a real treat to walk with him.

Other photos were from David, from England, who only was here 10 days, I think. It was great to walk with him, and we miss him and his friend Eric, who we have left behind several days ago.

We met a crew of Aussie women on the first day at Orrison. 2 of them are still keeping up with us, and the other 2 had to leave because of injuries.

Debbie and Mark are 2 Americans whom we have walked with a few times. They helped me to keep up the pace in order to get to Najera and snag the last 2 beds.

We really loved the Belgian hospitaleros at Los Arcos, and the Dutch ones in the laundry in Roncesvalles.

There are many Koreans on the trail, and there is a group of young ones who often stay at the same places as we do, as their criteria is inexpensive, with a kitchen. The smells from their cooking are amazing.

I´m off to put my legs up a wall. Tomorrow we walk into Burgos, with it´s fabulous Cathedral.

Buen Camino!

Albergues on the Camino

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado 22km

The bare facts; We left late, as Wendy was missing a bag - we never found it. But the day was about 18´and overcast, so we made great time. However, I never got my second cafe con leche. Most bars were closed.
We stopped to visit at the albergue in Granon after 5 km. I intend to volunteer again, and am checking out the place where that might be an option. So at 9;30, Christina, from Italy, was swabbing the floor alone, as her partner was already 2 days late in arriving. Last night she coordinated dinner for 50 pilgrims by herself! It was as charming as I remembered, and will go on my list.This is what dinner looks like with a smaller crowd.


There are categories of albergues. There is the municipal.

Municipal
They are usually run by employees, paid for a few hours a day. The one in Larrasoana was our least favourite. Estella was better, but both were very close quarters, with beds close together.
Los Arcos seemed to be a municipal, but it was run by the Amigos and staffed with Belgian volunteers. Najera was also staffed with volunteers. They were Spanish this time, though Mike has worked there, so they get a variety of nationalities.

Private
We have stayed in several of these. Though they need to make a profit, they usually charge only 10€ or so. Today we are in a private in Belorado, paying only 6 for the bed. We both have uppers. He apologized, as they like the young people to sleep on top.
The private albergues in St Jean and Orrison were much more expensive - not as much competition for them or choice for us. Still the bunks and crowded rooms.
We stayed in 2 called Apostle Santiago. The one in Puenta La Reina was exceptional, except for the steep climb.

Charities
Roncesvailles was run by the church and staffed with volunteers from Holland. This was a favourite, as there were 2 bunks per cubicles. The bathrooms were beautiful and clean.
Pamploma was a charity, sort of, staffed by people with disablilities. It was almost as great as Roncesvalles, though there was less privacy.
Last night in Santa Domingo we stayed in one run by volunteers - spanish again. It too was bright and clean.

About half the time the showers and toilets are shared with men and women. The shower cubicles can be very tight, as are the toilets.

But a pilgrim is grateful for a clean bed and a shower, and laundry facilities.

There are also more expensive options, but we are chosing the less espensive places, and we are usually happy.



We went to mass last night at this church in Santo Domingo.

Blessings!

Darlene

How a pilgrim amuses herself while walking

Day 10 - Najera to Santo Domingo de la calzada 21 km

 Just the bare facts: A good day today, with less walking than we could manage, after 2 very long days. We slept in - some people packed up by 5 am, as I think they were worried about the crowds on the Camino, but I don´t worry. We walked from 8 am to 2 pm, and got great beds in our second choice, the Casa del Santo. It is run by volunteers: might I want to be a hospitalera here? Maybe , as the facilities are great: bright, clean, spacious, a working computer!! and chickens in the backyard.
They rotate the chickens in the cathedral and the standins are housed here. The ones in the cathedral celebrate the local legend involving a young German pilgrim and an inkeeper´s daughter, and a miraculous intervention by St James that saved the pilgrim´s life after he had been strung up on the gallows. We hope to see the shrine later. I hope they don´t wake us too early tomorrow.

 So what do I think about during all that walking?
 I check out the wildflowers.
 I adjust my gear. Today there was often a fine mist, so the backpack cover went on and the rain jacket was off and on ( and off and on).
 I talked to a Spanish woman named Carmen. She called me a Camino sister after she saw my necklace and earrings of scallop shells, as I was the first person she had seen wearing them.
We talked to a guy from somewhere in Africa!! who had to walk 41 km yesterday to get a bed.
Wendy and I shared stories: I talked about the fun I had in the 80´s, answering personal ads.
We had cafe con leche with Rostislav, from the Czech republic. When we asked him to join us, he said ¨with pleasure - such a gentleman. I posted his picture of the coffee on facebook.
 I wondered if I could have something other than fish for supper. Sardines for lunch and great grilled trout last night, but time for a change.
I count my steps - especially during climbs. One hill went on for about a km today.
I challenge myself to see how long it will take to walk from one km signpost to the other.
 Today we passed the 200 km milestone from ST Jean PdP.
I think of songs to sing to match the circumstances. eg Long and winding road, Let the sun shine in, This is the day.
 I left Wendy after lunch, and kept up a good pace in order to get a bed. Our second choice came though.

Still can´t post pictures, but this is the website for Santo Domingo
 http://lugaresconhistoria.com/2011/03/14/santo-domingo-de-la-calzada/
 Buen Camino and blessings
Darlene

May Day! May Day!

Day 9 - Logrono to Najera: 29 km It was exceptionally beautiful today. First we exited a city, then wandered around a park and lake. The Camino never takes the shortest way, and the city fathers like you to see what they are most proud of, so we always wander past the church, and any other remarkable monuments. So it took a while to our first break. We had lunch on a bench on the Street of Grandmothers in Ventosa, and then the slog began. We had already done 19 km, and there were 11 left, and it was 1:30. Wendy and I agreed on our destination, and I began to walk with Debbie and Mark, a great American couple who are big hikers. I kept up with them and heard about all the great trips they had done, and how they met. I have found it best for me to walk the last stretch with someone who keeps me on pace, and I left Wendy behind. At 4:30 I arrived at the albergue where Mike volunteered in Najera, and got the last bed. It is May Day here, and a national holiday, so the town is full, and a lot of people book ahead. I pleaded for Wendy, and they promised her a place on a mat on the floor. And then a Camino angel, a Canadian named Lisa, said she would take the mat, and sleep in the dining area, as she is a little claustrophobic, and there are 90 bunks in the dorm. I claimed my bed, and walked back to find Wendy, as the signage was not too good, and there she was. So we are all settled, about to go for dinner and an early bed. Maybe not so far tomorrow! http://www.caminodesantiago.me/wp-content/uploads/Albergue-Municipal-in-Najera.png I tried to load the picture, but above is a link to a picture of the dorm. I am having trouble putting pictures on the blog, but they are loading on Facebook - I´ll keep trying.