Day 14 Burgos to San Bol 24 km
Day 15 San Bol to Itero de la Vega 26 km
Walking into Burgos was grueling. The trail was through an industrial area, and we couldn´t find our way to the promised track along the river. The city is gorgeous, once you find the old area, and the cathedral is spectacular. We had dinner then went to the pilgrim service. We saw nothing but a small side chapel, as there is a charge for wandering the church. It just doesn´t seem right. But though there was so much promise, it was hard adapting to a big city, and frustrating trying to find food, a supermercado, postcards, stamps - we found nothing except dinner. The albergue is huge, with 300 beds, and is brand new - a great design. The number of people in the albergue and the streets were overwhelming.
In contrast, the walk out of Burgos was lovely. Then we hit the highways, and we spent a lot of time wandering around the highways and railroad tracks. Once we hit the country away from traffic, we began to enjoy the scenery once again. We arrived at San Bol about 3 pm, to get the last 2 beds - there are only 12! The albergue is situated about 100 m off the track, in a glade of trees. There is an ancient spring, said to prevent any further foot problems if you bathe your feet in it. I touched my toes in. There were 2 Canadians - us, 2 Quebecois, 3 Italian, one Czech, 2 Germans, and 2 Spaniards. We were miles from anywhere, so it was a chance to really relax, catch up on my journal ( no internet or wifi there), and plan some blog posts. The hospitalera cooked a community dinner - 13 around a round table, and we had chicken paella, cooked from scratch by her in a huge paella pan, green salad, and vanilla pudding, with bread and wine - accomodation was 5 € and dinner was 7€. A thoroughly relaxingevening, ending with a reiki treatment.
Today we climbed up and down the famous hill out of Castrojerez.Because it was so hot, it was a tough afternoon out of Castrojerez, but we are in a fine albergue, though nothing special yet, with the prospect of friends we have remet today. Life is good. This is a Roman bridge we crossed just before we arrived.
Perceptions can be deceiving, from the bottom the old castle of Castrogeriz looks like its on a hill, but once you are up there, you see that it is one of a number of remnants of a mesa that stretches as far as the eye can see. The effects of erosion by water created the super gullies you are walking in most of the time. But it takes courage to post your answer so kudos for that.
Ok, you have your Fromista trivia question still to answer. Getting into the church could take some effort.
New pop quiz: What does Alcazar mean? And no it is not Quick Draw McGraw's alter ego's El Cabong's calling cry.
Did you mean, that there was a Roman Bridge here and it was rebuilt, or did a guide book say this was actually a Roman Bridge? Seems awfully wide for a Roman bridge.
Could not get into the church in Fromista we seem to always have that trouble.Delete
Hi Darlene, I think the bridge in your picture is in fact over the River Pisuerga. Load limit 16T. Barbara and I had brunch on a bench at the start of the bridge. It is an eleven span bridge, Romanesque in design, built by by Alfonso VI, a great benefactor of the Camino. Locals, you will find (the older ones) still call it Puente de la Mulga. Mulga, meaning heap of stones, another border marker like Cruz de Ferro. And Romanesque is close to Roman anyways. But I love reading your blog.ReplyDelete
So to give you lots of lead time, who built the bridge into Sahagun. For a bonus point, under who's likely command was this bridge built?
Darlene as usual am walking the Camino with you in spirit. I loved Casrrojeriz. I remember the walk up the big hill and then the walk down. The view was spectacular. To me this was the beginning of the Meseta and my soul searching. A wonderful time to contemplate. Sounds like you are meeting more and more new friends everyday. How nice is that? Buen CaminoReplyDelete
Darlene, have so enjoyed reading your blog posts....read every one from the beginning of this trip up until today's post. I feel so sad that I had to leave and come home, but, on the other hand, am now finding that I am walking beside you and Wendy in spirit each day. I remember clearly from my walk last year, all the places you have so far mentioned....happy memories.ReplyDelete
Re the road into Burgos....what a shame that you were unable to find the 'river way' into the town....this is the one I travelled along and it was so much calmer and, apart from the graffiti, so much nicer than the busy road way.
Camino hugs to you both....
May 8, 2014 at 12:57 AM
How lovely that you and others are walking beside us in spirit, bringing you happy memories. Hugs right back to you. Keep on healing.Delete
I remember that miserable walk into Burgos and also seeking but not finding the trail by the river. Also recall not liking the urban bustle of the city and having trouble finding things. Abrazos to you and Wendy.ReplyDelete
We looked for the entrance to Burgos by the river but missed it and remember the trail by the airport was hot and not pleasant. The albergue was terrific with the lovely amenities and the walk out in the early morning was lovely.ReplyDelete
I found that not looking up and counting your steps was a good way to approach Alto Mostelares and when you reach the top it is amazing.
Wendy and I both practice the counting steps and not looking up, plus bending over a bit and taking baby steps. Whatever gets you up the hill.Delete
Darlene, you are moving!... I remember too, that urban walk into Burgos, I almost walked the River walk, but got called back by some pilgrims saying I was taking the wrong route. Greenhorn that I was, I listened to them, then my inner voice. I know how you feel about paying to see a church. I had that argument in Santa Domingo, they told me to come back for mass and I could wander aroung. That does not work in Burgos, the pilgrims mass is held by a side altar. I got a discount with my pilgrims passport and did not regret paying the entry. By the time I got to Astorga, I had giving up getting upset about expecting to get in free if there is a museum attached or tourist spot. In Leon, seeing the Museum is well worth the cost, but as far as I know the church is free, especially during mass. St. Isadore, has a pilgrims blessings at noon, in case you didn't already know. Ultreia IngridReplyDelete
Thanks for the tips, Ingrid.Off to mass to see this church.Delete